Launched Aug. 31 in Mississauga, Ont., 17 Steakhouse is owned by brothers Victor and Colin McCullough, veterans of the food business who’ve logged 25 years of restaurant experience between them.
The brothers McCullough modeled their restaurant on a Las Vegas-style steakhouse, and they’ve done a terrific job, designing a grand, 32,000-sq.-ft space kitted out in an understated palette of grey and black. Large crystal chandeliers glitter and drip from the soaring ceiling. But the room’s centrepiece is a giant aquarium, filled with a colourful assortment of African cichlid fish, that can be seen from one of the private rooms and the sleek lounge.
Manning the stoves is Neil Patterson, formerly of Toronto steakhouse Jacobs & Co., who’s doing fine work at his new digs.
Patterson does wonders with seafood starters — say, thick slices of seared ahi tuna complemented by avocado mousse and mango salsa, or fat scallops, adroitly seared to tender and kicked up with corn puree and chorizo succotash. Pillowy chunks of lobster float in a deeply flavoured bisque.
Tartare of sparklingly fresh, deftly seasoned steak is one of the better versions I’ve had around town.On meaty matters, Patterson does marvelous things, too. Cooked precisely medium rare, as requested, well-marbled 14 oz. U.S. Prime ribeye is juicy and carries a deep char, while 6 oz. Ontario beef tenderloin is similarly flavourful and super-tender.
Absurdly generous, veggie side dishes shine, and include duck-fat thyme-roasted fingerling potatoes; perfectly cooked spinach, swiss chard and watercress; and earthy sautéed mushrooms.
Among a strong trio of sweet finishes is silky vanilla-scented crème brulee; dark and rich flourless chocolate torte; and homey apple crisp, served warm.
Kudos to Colin and Victor, too, for assembling a service team that is gracious, polished and professional.
Buyouts will be considered for the restaurant, which seats 300 people. Two private rooms each seat 10. An upstairs event space seats 500.